Encontro Xingu: Day 1

There were problems along the way. Buses broke down, bridges collapsed – one bus was even shot at! Boat engines failed. Some groups have not arrived yet. Those from furthest away, the Xavante and the representatives from the Xingu Indigenous Park were delayed en route; they should arrive today.

Throughout the day, the buses trundled the 8 kilometres of pitted and rutted dirt road from Altamira to the seminary at Bethania to end their journeys, many of which had lasted for several days.

The Indians emerged from the buses painted and ready for action, surprisingly lively after their arduous journeys. After a short break to bathe and eat they were off again, back into Altamira for the opening ceremony of the Encontro Xingu.

Wave after wave of colourful, singing, dancing troupes of Indians, each from a different village or area, entered the gymnasium venue to cheers and applause from the waiting throng of non-Indian supporters and well-wishers.

Dom Erwin Kräutler, the Bishop of the Xingu, opened the meeting, introducing each Indian group: Kayapo, Asurini, Arawete, Parakana, Panara, Arara. they were followed by people from the rural movements in the area, small farmers, extractivists, and rural workers. Each spoke with passion; each reinforced the united view; your dams are not wanted here, the Xingu River is our home, our soul, our livelihood.

The singing and the dancing gave way to talking. Some of the Indian chiefs spoke in their own languages, but many gave articulate presentations in Portuguese. They even sang the Brazilian national anthem in Kayapo, to emphasise that these are Brazilians, that the Indian nations are an integral part – the original part – of the Brazilian nation.

Tuira Kayapo, a forceful woman warrior, brandished her machete and spoke forcefully of her worries for the future of her children and grandchildren. In 1989, her image circulated the world when she approached the representative of Eletrobras, threatening him symbolically by touching his cheeks with her machete. In 2008 she is still threatening, and still angry at the idea that her culture and her livelihood will be forcibly swept away from by the Brazilian government in its thirst for electricity, in the name of Progress.

Today, Tuesday, will see the Indians confronting the representatives of Eletrobras, the national electricity company who are promoting the Belo Monte dam this time. They have been heavily criticised by Brazilian scientists and activists, with support from international campaigners who see the local people disempowered in the face of the mighty Brazilian government and construction giants.

© Patrick Cunningham

Pictures of the first day of the Encontro Xingu can be seen at:
http://pa.photoshelter.com/c/scp/gallery-show/G0000lmZk1x_DLsY/